The Virgen de las Angustias, patron saint of Granada

Granada is a city with a deep religious culture, and many of its celebrations are rooted in the Christian calendar — its patron saint's festival being no exception.

The iconography of the Virgen de las Angustias follows that of a Pietà: it depicts the moment when Mary, now alone, holds the lifeless body of her son after he has been taken down from the cross. For this reason, she is often shown with the cross in the background, always with the burial shroud draped over it, signalling that the Lord has died on it.

It's an image that touches something deep when you see it. There's something in that expression of a mother's grief that connects with anyone, believer or not.

The local devotion to this image dates back to the time of the Catholic Monarchs and grows out of their fondness for the devotional panel paintings of the Gothic period, which were very common at the time. Our Virgen de las Angustias dates from the 16th century and, after extensive and careful study, has been attributed to the Valladolid school — a theory that is very recent and still under consideration.

But here's the curious part: the Virgen de las Angustias wasn't originally designed as such. In fact, the base sculpture, the figure of the Virgin, was originally a simple dressable Dolorosa (Sorrowful Virgin). By 1614, a Baroque console had already been added in front of her, with the dead Christ laid on top.

In other words, the Virgin appears to be seated, but in reality the trick lies in arranging the folds of her robes so that they completely conceal the piece of furniture hidden underneath. Our ancestors were nothing if not resourceful!

Following the outbreak of plague that struck Granada in the 17th century, devotion to the Virgen de las Angustias grew, as she came to be seen as an intercessor for healing. Locals began turning to her in difficult times, and it seemed she listened.

In the 18th century, once that dark period had passed, and with Martín de Ascargorta serving as bishop, countless prints bearing the Virgin's image began to circulate, distributed not only within the city but across the wider metropolitan area. This did a great deal to boost her veneration, which rapidly gained more devotees.

By the 19th century, devotion had grown so strong that it was decided she should be named patron saint of the city of Granada. So, in 1885 the City Council began the formal process and, two years later, Pope Leo XIII granted our Virgin the honour of patronage.

Then, in the 20th century, specifically on 5 May 1913, Pope Pius X granted the image its canonical coronation, and on 20 September of that same year the ceremony was held, led by Bishop José Meseguer y Costa.

Ever since, every year in September, the city of Granada renews its vows of devotion to the Virgen de las Angustias.

The image of the Virgen de las Angustias is kept inside the Basilica of Our Lady of the Angustias. It's a site worth visiting even if you're not especially religious, simply because it's a gem of Granada Baroque architecture.

This Baroque church began construction around 1617, under master architect Juan Luis Ortega, a pupil of Alonso Cano. It was built over the remains of an earlier structure, a 16th-century basilica dedicated to Saint Ursula and Saint Susan.

For this reason, the original brotherhood founded in 1545 was named Angustias y Transfixión de Nuestra Señora y Santa Úrsula y Susana. This brotherhood, which started out with barely 20 members, began to grow once it won the backing of the Royal Chancery and, soon after, that of members of the Royal Family, such as Don Juan of Austria and Emperor Philip II.

In fact, it was Philip II who donated the land for the construction of the new basilica — just imagine the level of devotion involved!

At the head of the church sits a wonderful 17th-century camarín (elevated chamber), where the patron saint is displayed today. This camarín was only the second of its kind built in Spain. It features a Churrigueresque-style retable made with coloured marble, another hallmark typical of our city.

Visiting hours: the church is open to the public Monday to Sunday, from 7:30am to 1:30pm and from 6pm to 9pm. The camarín, which can also be visited, opens on Tuesdays from 6pm to 7:30pm and on Wednesdays from 11:30am to 12pm and from 12:30pm to 1pm.

The Patrona's festival runs throughout the whole month of September. It's when Granada throws itself completely into honouring its Virgin, and the city fills with a special atmosphere you won't find at any other time of year.

Around Fuente de las Batallas and Carrera de la Virgen, the traditional autumn market is set up, with stalls offering all kinds of autumn fruit (the most common being the azofaifa, or jujube), along with typical sweets and crafts.

On the 15th, the traditional flower offering usually begins at around 6pm. The image of the Virgin is placed at the church door, and metal frameworks are set up covering part of the façade, gradually filled with the flowers that thousands of locals and devotees bring to her every year.

It's also traditional for a shower of petals to be released from a helicopter. It's a genuinely moving sight to see the basilica's façade slowly covered in flowers while people queue up to leave their bouquets.

The last Saturday of the month brings the procession. I can assure you it's something you need to see at least once in your life. The procession sets off from the basilica from around 6pm, and it's so long that by the time the front of it is returning to the church, the back of it is still leaving.

Locals take to the streets to see their Patrona, who makes her way to the Cathedral every year. It's a striking sight to see how the whole city comes to a standstill to welcome its Virgin.

On that same day, and generally over that whole weekend, it's traditional to eat the most eagerly awaited sweet treat among locals: the torta de la Virgen.

It's an oval-shaped cake with a dry pastry base, dusted with sugar on top and usually filled with candied pumpkin (cabello de ángel) or chocolate. It commonly includes nuts and raisins too.

I can assure you that during those days, every household in Granada has a torta de la Virgen in the kitchen. It's a food tradition that unites the whole city, from the most devout to those who are simply in it for the cake.

Buy it from a traditional Granada bakery — the ones made in the big supermarkets are nothing like the handmade version.

So now you know: if you want to visit Granada and aren't sure which month to pick, I'd recommend coming in September. The city looks beautiful, bidding farewell to summer and welcoming autumn, and on top of that it throws itself body and soul into the patron saint's festival, which you really shouldn't miss.

It's ideal for lovers of religion, art and food. But it's also perfect for anyone who wants to understand the soul of Granada, because this is the time of year when you get to see who locals really are.

September in Granada is wonderful. The oppressive summer heat has eased off, but you still get long days and pleasant temperatures — perfect for walking around the city and enjoying the outdoor celebrations.

During the Patrona's festival, Granada dresses up like at no other time of year. The streets fill with colour, there's a buzz everywhere, and people are especially cheerful and welcoming.

DISCOVER GRANADA DURING THE PATRON SAINT'S FESTIVAL WITH OUR TOURS

If you're coming in September for the Patrona's festival, it's the perfect time to get to know the real Granada. During these dates we run special experiences to help you understand why the Virgen de las Angustias matters so much to us locals.

Tours we recommend during September

Alhambra and Nasrid Palaces

Free Tour of Granada