Visiting the Alhambra and Generalife in Granada

Construction of the complex began in the 13th century, with the arrival of the Nasrid dynasty in the Granada region. The oldest part is the Alcazaba, a military fortress designed to defend the whole city rising behind it. It housed the elite guard and, from its towers, the surrounding land was controlled with an enormous advantage. Its most iconic tower, the Torre de la Vela, still stands today as the great guardian of the site.

From the Alcazaba, the palace city of the Alhambra gradually took shape, with its medina and, above all, the Nasrid Palaces that have survived to this day: the Mexuar (justice), Comares (a courtyard with a pool and the Throne Room, or Hall of the Ambassadors), the Palace of the Lions (a private residence around the Court of the Lions, with rooms such as the Hall of the Two Sisters) and the Partal (an example of an earlier palace, with a pool and terraced gardens).

And here's the key difference: while the Alhambra is the palace city itself, with its spaces of power and defence, the Generalife completes the complex as the place of gardens, orchards and leisure for the royal family, set on the Hill of the Sun.

The Alhambra and Generalife aren't a single building but a monumental complex, and the visit covers the following areas: first the Alcazaba, as the defensive core; then the palace city, where daily life and power were concentrated; and finally the Generalife, conceived as a garden, orchards and leisure space for the royal family.

The Alcazaba (the oldest part)

This is the military fortress that protected the whole palace city. The elite guard lived here, and from its towers the surrounding land was watched with such an advantage that they could see potential enemies approaching even a couple of days in advance. Its most iconic point is the Torre de la Vela, the great guardian of the complex.

The palace city (the Alhambra as a city in its own right)

After the Alcazaba, a genuine palace city gradually grew up. It wasn't just a palace: it included a medina with everything needed to function, such as markets, a main mosque and bathhouses, alongside the spaces reserved for the court.

The Nasrid Palaces (the 4 that survive)

Mexuar: this was where justice was administered. It was built in the early 14th century, and today mainly the royal hall survives, since the rest changed a great deal. After 1492, that hall was converted into a chapel, and what you see today is the result of that mix of uses.

Comares: one of the great examples of Nasrid art, arranged around an open courtyard with a pool. Its key room is the Throne Room, or Hall of the Ambassadors, which shows how Sultan Yusuf I carried out his duties of rule.

Palace of the Lions: the most famous, thanks to the fountain in its central courtyard. It's also built around a courtyard with a colonnade and, being more intimate, was conceived by Muhammad V as a private residence. Here you'll find some of the most impressive ceilings, decorated with muqarnas, especially in the Hall of the Two Sisters.

The Partal: only part of it survives. It was private property from the Conquest until the 20th century, which is why it was altered over time. After restoration work, it stands as a magnificent example of an early palace, still keeping its pool and the layout of terraced gardens.

The Generalife (the resting area)

The complex is completed on the Hill of the Sun, where the Generalife stands. It was the space of gardens, orchards and leisure for the royal family: the part designed to slow down, stroll and enjoy the surroundings.

The Alhambra and Generalife can be visited from Monday to Sunday, but the opening hours change depending on the time of year:

From 15 October to 31 March: 8:30 am to 6 pm

From 1 April to 14 October: 8 am to 8 pm

The General ticket covers the full visit (Alcazaba + Nasrid Palaces + Generalife), while the Gardens, Generalife and Alcazaba option leaves out the Palaces.

These are the main ticket types:

General ticket (full visit): €22.27Includes the Alcazaba, Nasrid Palaces and Generalife.

Gardens, Generalife and Alcazaba: €12.37Includes the Generalife and Alcazaba (without access to the Nasrid Palaces).

If you want to understand what was a fortress, what was a palace city, and what was a Nasrid leisure space, here are the guided tours available that focus on the Alhambra, Generalife and Alcazaba.

Full Alhambra Tour with Nasrid Palaces

Duration 3 hours - From €51

Alhambra: Generalife, Palace of Charles V and Alcazaba

Duration 1.5 hours - From €37

Private Alhambra Tour

Duration 3 hours - From €180

Guided Alhambra Tour + City Pass

Duration 3 hours - From €120

Torre de la Vela (Alcazaba): the quintessential high viewpoint within the site, with an open panorama over Granada and the Vega.

Torre de las Armas (Alcazaba): a former defensive tower of the complex, offering superb views over the Albaicín and Sacromonte neighbourhoods.

Upper Gardens (Generalife): a clear view over the whole of the Alhambra city, letting you take in its beauty and scale.

Mirador de Lindaraja (Nasrid Palaces): a well-known interior viewpoint within the palace route, integrated into the rooms of the Lions area.

If you're seeing the full Alhambra (Alcazaba, Nasrid Palaces and Generalife), it normally takes between 3 and 4 hours. The Nasrid Palaces take up a significant chunk of that time, and entry is at an assigned time slot, so it's best to plan the rest of your visit around that time rather than the other way around.

If instead you want a quicker plan covering the essentials, such as the Alcazaba plus the Generalife and gardens (without the Palaces), you can comfortably do it in around 2 to 2.5 hours.

But if you like to stop, look closely at the details, take photos and stroll unhurried, set aside 4 to 5 hours so you can enjoy it properly without watching the clock.

If you're coming from the city centre, the most natural option is to walk up. The access route takes you through the lower part of the woods and drops you right at the entrance to the site. It is an uphill walk with some steep stretches, yes, but it brings you straight into the complex.

If you'd rather save your legs, the city bus and taxis will drop you very close to the entrance, which is especially handy in summer or if you're short on time. If you're coming by car, there is parking in the area, but it fills up on busy days, so if you can, arrive with plenty of time to spare and save your energy for inside, since the visit itself has its own pace and distances to cover.

It's not just the Alhambra: the site has been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage property since 1984, and it also includes the Generalife and the Albaicín (the protected area covers 450 hectares in total, plus a 67-hectare buffer zone).

There has been an annual visitor cap in place for decades: the Alhambra's Master Plan notes that, since 2002, the site has kept a limit of around 2.76 million visitors a year to manage tourist pressure.

The Court of the Lions comes with its own numbers: the courtyard's colonnade totals 124 columns, and the central fountain is held up by 12 lions (the most reproduced image from the Nasrid Palaces).

The muqarnas aren't a figure of speech: in the Hall of the Two Sisters alone, more than 4,400 individual muqarnas pieces have been counted, an extraordinary technical feat for its time.

Even the Generalife's grounds are managed with numbers in mind: in the Dehesa del Generalife, controlled grazing with a flock of 660 sheep has been used to clear scrub and help prevent fires, covering around 50 hectares.