Nasrid and Muslim Granada: a route through the Alcazaba, the Generalife, the Nasrid Palaces, the Bañuelo and the Madraza
7 min read
Written by official guides

The Alhambra of Granada is one of Spain's most emblematic monuments and, therefore, one of the most visited. It is one of the most important buildings of Islamic art in the world. Standing on the Sabika hill, the Alhambra dominates Granada and the valley of the river Darro, which gave it a clear defensive advantage. Its name comes from the Arabic al-hamra (the red one, or red castle), referring to the reddish tone of its walls when the torches were lit at night. Another theory links it to the first sultan who promoted its construction in the 13th century, Alhamar the Red. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984 together with the Generalife, and today it is understood as a complex where the Alcazaba, the Nasrid Palaces and the Generalife form the core of Nasrid Granada.
A general history of the Alhambra and the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada
Although earlier remains exist, specifically from the Zirid dynasty, a dynasty that came centuries before the Nasrids, the Alhambra was commissioned in 1238 by Alhamar, with the founding of the Kingdom of Granada. Muhammad I (Alhamar) established the seat of political power in Granada, beginning an ambitious building project that his successors would continue.
During the reigns of Yusuf I and his son Muhammad V, the Alhambra reached its greatest splendour, with the construction of the main palaces, defensive towers and complex hydraulic systems that supplied water to the whole enclosure. The Alhambra worked as an independent city, with a great mosque, baths, workshops, houses and gardens. At the height of the Nasrid kingdom of Granada, some 4,000–4,500 people may have lived in the Alhambra, and some chronicles suggest as many as 6,000 at its peak.
After the conquest of Granada, the complex passed to the Catholic Monarchs and so, over the years, into Christian hands. Although many of the structures we see today were respected, changes were made, such as the construction of the Palace of Charles V and the Church of Santa María de la Alhambra, among others.
Many buildings from the Andalusi period still exist in Granada, and some very notable ones are linked to the history of the Alhambra, such as the Bañuelo and the Madraza.
The essential stops for understanding Nasrid art in the Alhambra
Alcazaba
The Alcazaba is the defensive core of the Alhambra and the oldest part of the complex. Its main function was military, housing the garrison responsible for protecting the enclosure. It is made up of sturdy walls and strategically placed towers.
The Torre de la Vela, as well as its defensive function, was the watchtower, hence its name, because guards kept watch (en vela) 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Important events for the city were also announced from there.
You can walk along the walls, the watchtowers, the inner courtyards and the remains of the soldiers' houses, the military quarter. Other towers you can visit in the Alcazaba are the Torre del Cubo and the Torre de las Armas.
Nasrid Palaces
The Nasrid Palaces were the residence of the sultan and his court and are the highest expression of Nasrid art. Unlike their sober exteriors, the interiors stand out for extremely rich decoration, combining plasterwork, tiles, carved wood and Arabic calligraphy.
The design of the palaces reflects a symbolic conception of power, in which water, light and geometry create harmonious, spiritual spaces. Inside the Nasrid Palaces you can see courtyards, ceremonial halls, private rooms and administrative spaces.
Highlights include the Court of the Myrtles, with its large central pool, the Hall of the Ambassadors, used for official receptions, and of course the Court of the Lions, the symbol of Nasrid artistic refinement. The decoration includes poetic and religious inscriptions exalting the sultan and God.
Generalife
The Generalife occupies the slopes of the Cerro del Sol, from which the whole city and the Genil and Darro valleys can be taken in. There are different interpretations of the meaning of its name: Garden of the Overseer, of the Architect (alarife), the Zambrero's Orchard, and so on.
The Generalife became a place of leisure for the kings of Granada when they wanted to escape official palace life. It was built in the mid-13th century and, according to an inscription of 1319, King Abu l-Walid Ismail (1313–1324) redecorated it.
Today the Generalife is made up of two groups of buildings connected by the Patio de la Acequia. However, it is difficult to know the Generalife's original appearance, since it underwent alterations and reconstructions throughout the Christian period: at first necessary because of the state of deterioration and neglect it was in during the last Muslim period, but later disturbing its layout and disfiguring many of its features.
In the construction of the Generalife there is no decorative excess or grand architectural gesture. Unlike the Alhambra, the whole of the Generalife, although solid, is generally very plain and simple, which points to the intimacy and calm the monarchs sought when they retired to rest among its gardens. There are only a few, not very varied, stucco decorative motifs, but of extreme finesse and good taste.
The Generalife gardens, the Patio de la Acequia, the Patio de la Sultana, the Generalife palace and, of course, some of the best views of the Alhambra and the Albaicín.
Opening hours and tickets for visiting the Alhambra, the Bañuelo and the Madraza
The Alhambra is open almost all year but closes on 25 December and 1 January.
Winter hours (15 October to 31 March): 08:30 to 18:00
Summer hours (1 April to 14 October): 08:30 to 20:00
These are the ticket options and what each includes:
General Alhambra ticket (Alcazaba + Generalife + Nasrid Palaces): €22.27
Gardens, Generalife and Alcazaba: €12.73
Dobla de Oro (Alhambra + Andalusi monuments): €30.48
Night visit to the Nasrid Palaces: €12.73
Night visit to the Gardens and Generalife: €8.48
Night Dobla de Oro (Nasrid Palaces + Andalusi monuments): €23.06
Alhambra + Rodríguez-Acosta Foundation: €25.45
Bañuelo
15 September to 30 April: 10:00 to 17:00 (Monday to Sunday)
1 May to 14 September: 09:00 to 14:30 and 17:00 to 20:30 (Monday to Sunday)
Admission: €5 per person
Madraza
Monday to Friday: 09:00 to 21:00
Saturday: 11:00 to 14:00 and 17:30 to 20:30
Sundays: closed
As it belongs to the University, it may also be closed outside term time.
A guided visit to understand the Alhambra complex
There are different types of visit for enjoying this monument. The best fit is the full visit to the whole complex, but it is not always possible, since ticket availability varies. These are the different options and prices for these visits:
Full guided visit to the complex: adults €51; junior (ages 12 to 15) €31; children aged 6 to 11 €22; under-6s free.
Guided visit to the gardens, Generalife and Alcazaba: adults €37; children aged 12 to 15 €22; children aged 6 to 11 €6; under-6s free.
Curiosities of the Alhambra, the Bañuelo and the Madraza of Granada
The Alhambra is the second most visited monument in Spain, after the Sagrada Família.
Every 2 January the bell of the Torre de la Vela is rung to celebrate the city's conversion to Christianity. It is a tradition kept since 1492.
There were once 6 Nasrid palaces in the Alhambra. Only 3 are still standing today.
The Alhambra had its own hunting reserve. Today there is no sign to indicate it.
The Bañuelo and the Alhambra had the same restorer: Leopoldo Torres Balbás worked on both monuments.
Torres Balbás acquired the Bañuelo for 16,541 pesetas from Alhambra ticket sales. The restoration was completed in 1928.
The Madraza suffered a fire that destroyed much of its structure. Only a few parts of the original Muslim building survive.
Only 2 medical books from the Madraza survive, at the University of Alcalá de Henares. The others were burned in the 15th century after Granada's conversion to Christianity.
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