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The Albaicín is Granada's oldest neighbourhood, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. There is evidence that the area was already settled in Iberian times, and it remained inhabited after the arrival of the Romans. Various archaeological excavations carried out in the area have also revealed that it was a religious centre during the Visigothic period.
It's a neighbourhood made for getting lost in its narrow, maze-like streets, taking in the Alhambra from its lookout points, and soaking up its Arab roots. The street layout follows typical Muslim town planning, with a labyrinth of narrow lanes and dead-end alleys.
After a period of decline, it rose again with the arrival of the Zirid dynasty. It was at this point that it was walled and organised into the defensive quarter we see today.
There's no end of things to highlight in the Albaicín. The lower part, closer to the river and once the first line of defence against attack, is the most restored today. The middle and upper areas, which were once the wealthiest, are famous for their cármenes.
These walled houses with adjoining garden plots were the residences of the great landowners of the Nasrid era. Cármenes represent a unique type of domestic architecture that combines a home with cultivated land within the city.
Casa de Zafra is the Albaicín's Interpretation Centre and the only Arab house predating the Catholic Monarchs that can still be visited in the neighbourhood today. It served as a Hispano-Muslim home during the 14th and 15th centuries and contains important original mural paintings from that period.
The Palacio de Dar al-Horra, or House of the Honest Woman, was the residence of Aixa Dar al-Horra, mother of Boabdil, the last Nasrid ruler of Granada. It is the only Nasrid palace that survives outside the Alhambra.
The neighbourhood also boasts a remarkable network of cisterns (aljibes) dating from the 11th to the 16th century. Many are now in ruins or no longer in use, but they stand as testament to the Andalusi mastery of water management.
The Aljibe del Rey (King's Cistern) is the largest Muslim cistern in Granada, built during the 11th-century Zirid period with a capacity of 300 cubic metres. It has four bays covered by barrel vaults and three central arcades.
The neighbourhood also still preserves stretches of wall and gates from the Islamic period. It is home to a large number of religious buildings that reveal how the area was transformed after the Christian conquest.
The Church of El Salvador was built on the site of the Albaicín's former main mosque, of which a beautiful courtyard, the Patio de las Abluciones (Ablutions Courtyard), a deep cistern in very good condition, and a number of columns can still be seen.
The Convent of Santa Isabel la Real was one of the first great Christian building projects in Granada. Queen Isabella I herself commissioned its founding in 1501.
The neighbourhood is also home to numerous lookout points offering beautiful views over the Alhambra and the city.
The Mirador de San Nicolás is one of the most famous viewpoints in the Albaicín. The views are breathtaking: the entire Alhambra complex unfolds before you, with the city at its feet and the Sierra Nevada rising behind. It's no coincidence that this is one of the most photographed sunsets in Spain.
The Mirador de Santa Isabel la Real sits right next to the convent of the same name. It's a lovely viewpoint, and quieter than San Nicolás.
The Mirador de la Lona lies just past the Placeta de San Miguel Bajo, next to the church of the same name. It offers a different, side-on view of the Alhambra.
The Placeta del Abad is where you'll find the remains of the old Bib al-Bunud Gate, or Gate of the Standards. Whenever a new sultan took the throne of the Kingdom of Granada, this was the spot where his banner was first raised.
The easiest way to reach the Albaicín is by minibus (lines C31, C32 and C34), which connect Granada's city centre with the old Arab quarter. They depart from Plaza Nueva, with the last service to the Albaicín leaving at around 11:00 pm Sunday to Thursday, and 1:00 am on Fridays and Saturdays.
You can also take a taxi from central Granada; a ride from Plaza Nueva costs around 5 euros. Private cars are not allowed into the area.
That said, the best way to experience the Albaicín is to wander it on foot — walk up from the Carrera del Darro and discover its labyrinthine streets on a pleasant stroll. If you're reasonably fit, walking up is by far the best option.
It's a good idea to walk up via the Cuesta del Chapiz from the Paseo de los Tristes to enjoy the area during the day, and come back down via Calle Calderería Nueva, which is lined with Arab shops and tea houses.
The Albaicín's streets are cobbled and can be uneven underfoot, so comfortable shoes are a must.
There's never a bad time to try the tapas and home-style cooking served in its popular bars and terraces. All you need to enjoy everything the neighbourhood has to offer is a relaxed pace, comfortable footwear, and a good guide.
Allow 2-3 hours to walk around the Albaicín's main sights, including stops at the viewpoints.
The neighbourhood is not accessible for visitors with reduced mobility, due to its steep slopes and uneven cobblestones.
Discover all the secrets and legends of the Albaicín with our official guides, who know every corner, every story and every stone of these hills. We'll take you to the viewpoints with the best views of the Alhambra and share the stories you won't find in the guidebooks.
Want to see it with an official guide telling you in person?
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