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One of the festivals most cherished by locals is held every year in September in honour of Saint Michael: the traditional Romería (pilgrimage) of San Miguel. On the last Sunday of the month, the Albaicín takes to the streets to accompany its patron saint up to the hermitage of San Miguel Alto on the Cerro del Aceituno. It's one of those truly authentic celebrations where devotion, neighbourhood tradition and the distinctive local atmosphere of the Albaicín all come together.
The figure of the Archangel Michael has always been seen as God's defending knight and a champion of the Christian faith. He is one of the pillars of Catholicism and is venerated in countless places. He is, in fact, a figure shared across faiths, since Islam and Judaism also honour him.
From the time of the Catholic Monarchs, devotion to Saint Michael took strong root in the Granada region. Over time, he became established as the patron saint of the Albaicín neighbourhood. There, in the heart of the Baroque period, the image carved by Bernardo de Mora was blessed and is now kept in the hermitage of San Miguel Alto.
Later, a copy was made, which is the one now kept in the church of San Miguel y La Aurora (formerly known as San Miguel Bajo), very close to the famous San Nicolás viewpoint.
It's lovely to see how the Albaicín has kept up this special devotion to Saint Michael. The neighbourhood's residents feel a real connection to their patron saint — it's far more than just a formal tradition.
This site sits in a privileged spot: the Cerro del Aceituno (or Azeytuno). During the Nasrid period, the area formed part of the city's defensive walls. Andalusi texts tell us that before the defensive tower was built, there was a small Christian church here with an olive tree that always bore fruit around the time of Saint John's Day.
The Nasrid tower stood there until the 17th century, when it was demolished as no longer necessary. In the 19th century, the current neoclassical-style hermitage was built, restoring the earlier one, which had been lost during the Napoleonic occupation. The camarín (elevated chamber) was added in the late 19th century.
The views from the hermitage are breathtaking. You see the whole of Granada spread out below, the Alhambra, Sierra Nevada in the distance... It's one of those places that helps you understand why locals chose this spot to honour their patron saint.
On the last Sunday of September, close to the feast day of Saint Michael, the traditional Romería to the Cerro del Aceituno is held. This celebration forms part of the wider festivities of the Albaicín neighbourhood, which include, among other things, a traditional communal paella and a football match.
At around midday, the copy of the image of the Archangel Michael is carried in procession up to the hermitage of San Miguel Alto. Large numbers of neighbours and onlookers accompany it. The atmosphere among the pilgrims is striking too, with traditional carts and costumes on show.
Once at the hermitage, the copy of Saint Michael is considered to meet the original image. And there, for a few hours, the Romería is celebrated, ending with the copy's return to its usual home.
It's a special moment when the two images meet. The people of the Albaicín feel, in a sense, that they are reuniting their patron saint with himself.
What makes this Romería so lovely is that it isn't an isolated event. It forms part of the wider festivities of the Albaicín neighbourhood, where you can soak up that authentic neighbourhood atmosphere that's becoming harder and harder to find.
During these days there's a communal paella, a football match, and other activities that turn the Albaicín into one big family celebrating together. It's when the neighbourhood's community spirit really shines through.
This isn't a touristy or staged romería. It's a celebration of neighbours, for neighbours, where visitors from outside are warmly welcomed but where you can still feel the authenticity of traditions kept alive because people genuinely care about them.
The Romería of San Miguel Alto is one of those experiences that connects you to the most authentic side of Granada. It's not a celebration staged for tourists, but a real neighbourhood tradition that shows you how the Albaicín keeps its community spirit alive.
If you're here in September and want to understand how Granada's historic neighbourhoods really work, this romería offers a unique perspective. You get to see how devotion, history and everyday life blend together naturally.
During the Romería, the Albaicín shows its warmest, most welcoming side. Locals are in good spirits, there's a festive buzz in the air, and it's easier to get people to share stories about the neighbourhood and show you corners you wouldn't normally see.
If you want to experience an authentic Granada where traditions still mean something to the people who celebrate them, the Romería of San Miguel Alto is an experience not to be missed.
If you'd like to experience the Romería of San Miguel like a local, you can join us for the celebration. We know the best route to follow the procession and will tell you the story of the Albaicín's patron saint as we climb up to the hermitage on the Cerro del Aceituno.
We'll also show you the best views of Granada from San Miguel Alto, a viewpoint many visitors never discover.
Want to see it with an official guide telling you in person?
See tours in Granada