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The Realejo, at the foot of the Alhambra hill, was Granada's Jewish quarter from at least the 12th century, when a Jewish district in the area is already documented under the name Garnata al-Yahud (Granada of the Jews) — a name that, it's believed, may even have given rise to the city's own name.
With the expulsion of the Jews in 1492, ordered by the Catholic Monarchs after the conquest, the neighbourhood's character changed completely: today barely any physical trace of that old Jewish quarter remains, and the Realejo is known above all as a Baroque neighbourhood, as well as Granada's tapas district par excellence.
The Realejo's main square sits on the site of an old 11th-century Islamic cemetery and, in Nasrid times, was known as the campo de la loma. Here stands the Cristo de los Favores, before which thousands of locals gather every Good Friday, following the tradition of asking for three favours. Today it's also the best spot in the neighbourhood for terraces and tapas bars.
The Church of Santo Domingo is the neighbourhood's most striking building: its trompe-l'oeil facade hides a solemn interior that takes visitors by surprise. Nearby stands the Casa de los Tiros, one of the Realejo's most emblematic buildings, today a museum devoted to the history of Granada, with collections ranging from photography to ceramics, largely built up from private donations.
The Lavadero del Sol, a 19th-century public washhouse, is one of the few historic laundry sites still standing in Granada and forms part of the neighbourhood's ethnographic heritage. Wandering through the Realejo, it's also common to come across murals by the Granada street artist El Niño de las Pinturas, who has left much of his work on these streets.
Realejo-San Matías stretches from the foot of the Alhambra down to the Fuente de las Granadas, with two clearly distinct areas: the lower part, flat and full of terraces, and the upper part, with narrow streets and steep slopes.
It's within walking distance of almost anywhere in the historic centre, or reachable on buses C30, C32 and C35. The route is best enjoyed in the evening, when Campo del Príncipe and its surroundings fill up with a lively tapas atmosphere.
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